66 to St. Louis
“I drove 1100 miles just to see this!”
by Bob Jaussaud
We were at a roadside park in Catoosa, Oklahoma when we heard the comment above uttered by a Corvette driving man. This particular roadside park along “Old Route 66” is a historic swimming pond with a Blue Whale sitting in it. Both local kids and traveling kids used to frolic on the whale. Sue and I had actually come further than “Corvette Man” to see the “Blue Whale.” We had just driven over 1200 miles on the “Mother Road.”
path of Old Route 66. That changed a boring drive into a trip of a lifetime. We love the Route 66 kitsch that emerged after World War II. Returning G.I.s had the travel itch and Route 66 was their premier route. They and their fellow travelers found homes along Route 66 and started businesses. To attract customers, they created fun the Interstate Highways bypassed true America. A lot of Route 66 glamor is now just memory, but traveling the old road on our way east, Sue and I could still catch glimpses of what it must have been. Hackberry, Ashfork, “Standin’ On A Corner”, Devil Dog Road, Two Guns, “Here It Is”, Jack Rabbit, Wigwam Motel, Painted Desert - all music to our ears and places along Route 66 in Arizona. One really special find was the Painted Desert Inn. Built in the 1920’s, it has had several eras, even one as a Harvey House. Today it is a museum and part of the Petrified Forest National Park.
In New Mexico Devil’s Cliff, El Rancho Hotel, Cubero, Los Lunas, Long Horn Ranch, Clines Corners, “Blue Hole”, Cuervo, and Glenrio marked our path along Route 66. The unique auto museum in Santa Rosa is well worth a stop. A really big highlight for us was a fun night at the “Blue Swallow Motel” in Tucumcari where we met Obie, Clara and many other wonderful folks traveling the road. If you are ever lucky enough to stay there, take time for the chicken fried steak at Del’s Restaurant.
Next morning we drove to the town of Glenrio, right at the border with Texas. We were just looking for a convenient tree when we discovered the recently abandoned “El Vaquero”, a southwestern pub with wonderful metal sculptures made from horseshoes mounted on the fenceposts. An ancient tractor named “Yellza” also resides there.
Continuing through Texas we visited Cap Rock Station, the Big Texan, “Cadillac Ranch”, Alanreed Texaco, the Groom Leaning Water Tower, Devil’s Rope, and Tower Station. The original Cadillac Ranch has become a “rattle can” (spray paint) mecca but we found a
It all started this September when Sue and I headed east from Needles toward South Carolina to visit family. Looking at the maps, we realized that we could pretty much follow the
second and pristine “Cadillac Ranch” next to the Big Texan RV Park and, further on, a “VW Ranch” outside of Conway. Night time found us at the Route 66 Motel in Shamrock, a very pleasant place just down the street from the “U-Drop-Inn” and only 40 miles from Oklahoma.
Route 66 through Oklahoma requires more than a day. There are two really good museums to spend time in. The National Route 66 Museum is in Elk City and the Route 66 Museum is in Clinton. Sue and I only budgeted one day for Oklahoma so after enjoying the museums we had to make up time. We did stop at Lucille’s in Hydro but just drove past the Round Barn in Arcadia. When we reached the “Blue Whale” in Catoosa, though, we took time to stop and enjoy. Regretfully back on the road, dusk settled on us as we blew through Kansas. Someday it would be good to return and spend some time at Baxter Springs, Riverton and Galena.
Missouri Route 66 really, really impressed us. After our hurried night run through Kansas and Joplin, Boots Court in Carthage, our home for the night, was a very welcoming sight. We really enjoyed our stay there. Boots Court first opened during the Great Depression. It was built in 30’s streamline art deco style accented with black Carrara glass and green neon. Sisters Deborah Harvey and Priscilla Bledsaw saved the property from the wrecking ball in 2011 and have restored it to its heyday. The rooms are furnished as they were in 1948. There was a radio in our room, but no TV. Our room was the one Clark Gable stayed in while traveling with Al Menasco, an army buddy, just after the war.
Following Old Route 66 from Carthage to Saint Louis turned out to be one of our best days. All the little Missouri towns we passed through were charming. A highlight was Devil’s Elbow where we crossed the Big Piney River on the original iron bridge.
Surprisingly, another big highlight was Meramec Caverns. That afternoon we followed Old 66 into Saint Louis stopped for a frozen custard at Ted Drewe’s. It is impossible to describe how good that custard was. In Saint Louis we finally reached the Mississippi River and walked out on the historic Route 66 “Chain of Rocks” Bridge. The bridge is a hiking and bike trail now, but we could feel the ghost vibrations of the old cars crossing. For our last night on Route 66 we splurged for a room at the “Hyatt Regency at the Arch” and it proved to be money well spent. The Saint Louis Arch was a truly special end for our Route 66 adventure. ~ Bob
Galapagos Island Adventure
August 23 - September 4, 2018
by Debbie Miller Marschke
When I was 7 years old, my Mom bought a set of Time Life books for our family. One of those books was titled “Evolution.” It was my favorite book in the set and I can still see the illustrative photos in my mind’s eye. The images never left me, and soon I had added the first entry to my personal “bucket list”: The Galapagos Islands. Pretty ambitious for a 7 year old!
Through Steve’s college alumni association with CalTech, we had the opportunity to visit the Galapagos Islands. We flew to Guayaquil, Ecuador first, and then flew another 725 miles west to the Galapagos where we boarded the National Geographic ship “Endeavor II.” We flew from Los Angeles to Miami, then Miami to Guayaquil. Yes, I know what you are now thinking ( I thought the same thing) but check the map – Ecuador is on the same time zone as the East Coast. It took about 13 hours travel time to get from Los Angeles to Guayaquil. Then there was another short flight from the mainland to the island of San Cristobal. Our ship was embarking from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. There were about 90 people (52 cabins) in our group, the ship was 240 feet long; very accommodating and nimble enough to maneuver in close to shore. This tour was not a “cruise” format, it was an “expedition” itinerary focused on the natural environment.
Let’s back up for a moment, because I have skipped some good stuff. We spent a full day exploring Guayaquil before we joined up with our travel group. Ecuador uses the American dollar, and we thought prices were almost like at home. Food was very cheap with the exception of the restaurants within hotels (we figured that out right away). Gasoline was priced at $1.48 gallon and diesel was $1.03! Since tourism is a main staple, we had no problems with communication or getting around. English is the second language so it was not too hard to find someone whocould assist us. I remembered enough of my High School Spanish to read most signs and do some simple communication when needed. In order to get an overview of the city, we first rode in the open top of a double decker tour bus on a loop around the city, and then hit the
streets on foot. The bus did stop at Parque Bolivar, which is famous for the urban land iguanas that like to hang out in the park right in front of a historic cathedral (I thought that was funny). These iguanas are a different species than the ones on Galapagos, and they will probably never leave the park now that local parents bring the kiddies down there to tempt them with lettuce. There were dozens of them, real “lounge lizards”! The iguanas seemed pretty low key so you could get fairly close to check them out. We did witness a territorial squabble between two males, which ended with the winner doing a hilarious head-bobbing victory dance. We walked along the waterfront area known as El Malecon, and climbed the 444 steps in the oldest city neighborhood; the colorful Las Penas district. We were bombarded by a cacophony of barking street vendors, a remarkable amount of pedestrian foot traffic, and taxi drivers constantly beeping at us (checking if we were interested). Guayaquil is Ecuador’s largest city, and it had the hustle & bustle to prove it.
Perhaps some of you may be wondering why a trip to the Galapagos is in the Desert Explorers newsletter? The Galapagos Archipelago are equatorial islands in the Pacific Ocean, but much of the landscape is desert, not tropical. The cold Humboldt ocean current and the warmer Panama Flow both shift around the islands depending on the cycles of the fickle El Niño and La Niña weather patterns. These islands do not receive much rainfall most of the time. It is a dramatic stage unlike any other place in this world. The harsh landscapes are gorgeous. The islands are volcanically formed (still active, just like Hawaii ). Most of the islands were arid desert ecosystems; a few islands had some significant elevations so the higher you go up, the more vegetation there was. Yes it was lush in some locations, but mostly desert scape. Most of the coastal areas had low chaparral-like plants and cactuses. Temperatures were around 60-70° most days,
lightly breezy, puffy clouds or overcast, and some days it drizzled mist (called garua). We were grateful for the cloud cover because it was immediately apparent when the sun came out that the equatorial sun was brutal. We were there during the “dry season” which lasts nine months. Actually it felt a lot like the weather during winter at our house in Torrance, CA. Before the trip, I read books and watched videos, but I am here to testify that Galapagos is an indescribable and amazing place. You just need to go and experience it in person because words are not enough.
Upon arrival to the island of San Cristobal we checked on to the ship and returned to shore for an excursion. The islands did not have docks for a ship of this size, we had to use zodiac rafts as tenders every day. This is the policy to prevent the introduction of invasive species such a rats. San Cristobal is the location where Charles Darwin came ashore for the first time to collect his specimens for his later famous “origin of species” work. At age 26 Darwin had signed on as a naturalist under Captain Robert FitzRoy. His job was to assist in an exhaustive survey of the coast of South America and to procure rare specimens. He collected birds in a frenzy on the islands, which included many species of finches (which he neglected to label because he assumed that they were all the same species). When he returned to England, he was astonished to learn from ornithologist John Gould that there were 13 different varieties of collected finches. This launched alifetime of contemplation, study, and the authorship of a book that would change the world irreversibly.
We spent at least one hour a day snorkeling at each island. I think my favorite experience was snorkeling with the young sea lions. Our underwater photos were taken with our Nikon Coolpix camera which was waterproof (this is a GREAT pocket sized camera). The young sea lions were playful like little dogs, they would zoom all around us and sometimes put their
faces right up to ours. The photos are not zoomed in, we were actually that close. It was hilarious and the most fun. We loved it. I was constantly stopping to expel water from my snorkel because I was laughing too much! We interacted with the sea lions on the beach too, but they were mostly just sleeping or nursing babies when they were on shore.
Every day our group was accompanied by educated Naturalists that would escort and educate us. The group size was reduced into smaller ones, usually from 10-15 people, and there was no way to predict which guide we would be with because it depended on who boarded our zodiac at the same time. The guides were all highly professional and delightfully personable, so every guide was a winner.
Day Two -The next island we visited was Española. Española is the oldest island in the archipelago. We were surprised to learn that scientific studies of some of the unique endemic animal species on the islands are millions of years older than all the existing islands. What? How? The islands are formed volcanically as the hot liquid magma leaks out from a hot spot in the tectonic plate (Nazca Plate) under the Pacific Ocean. Over millions of years and movement, new islands are being created as the plate is moving along. The oldest islands that had been formed have eroded away and disappeared under the ocean over millions of years, displacing the animals to the nearest islands that are still existing. Española did not have much elevation and was very dry. It’s uninhabited by humans. We took a zodiac, landed on shore on the rough lava shelves, and hiked around to see what lived there.
This was the place where the Waved Albatrosses live and breed. They are a threatened species of large seabird with a seven foot wingspan. They forage in the open seas for fish and squid, sometimes for several days in one trip, going out as far as 60 miles. They don’t build a nest, just lay a single egg on
the rocky ground and move it around. Once the chick hatches, the parents may be gone for more than a day looking for food. They relocate the chick by sense of smell. We did see adult parents walking around looking for their chicks. The mated pair stays together until one of them dies. We were able to actually watch the mating dance going on which included bobbing up and down, and clacking beaks loudly (which sounded like hitting two hollow sticks of bamboo together).
We also saw the famous Galapagos Marine Iguanas. They were so numerous near the shoreline that we had to watch our steps closely because you literally would be stepping on them (I almost did a few times!) They hang out on the beaches and on jagged black lava (which they totally blend in with). A group of iguanas is called “a mess” (no joke). They eat algae (grows like sea lettuce) so they forage in the ocean underwater, diving down to submerged gardens. I noticed that they appeared to be sneezing a lot, but found out that they were actually expelling the high amounts of salt they’d ingested because high amounts of ingested salt is very toxic. Ugh, gross, watch out for the flying iguana snot! The iguanas were completely unaffected by our presence, I could simply walk up to them, bend down and take close up photos and they didn’t even flinch. Not tame, just totally unconcerned with humans. Every island was inhabited by the orange/red Sally Lightfoot crabs. These skittish crabs covered every beach and rocky coastal outcropping on the islands, in great numbers. Their presence gave our photos of the rocky coast splashes of vibrant color. There were armies of them everywhere, of various sizes.
We also saw the famed Blue Footed Boobies. They have a particularly funny mating dance that is a crack up to watch which involved fancy footwork and prancing around. They were my favorite! The feet and beak are a striking turquoise blue color. I could have purchased a
souvenir t-shirt that bragged “I love Boobies”, but I thought better of it...
The most unbelievably amazing thing about the animals on these islands is that they are not afraid of humans, so we could get face-to-face with them. This seemed other-worldly to me, they knew no fear of us at all, they were utterly unconcerned. This almost brought me to tears daily because I kept thinking that this was the way the world was created, before humans ruined everything. I had no idea a place like this still existed. The government of Ecuador has done a terrific job in their conservation efforts, despite the fact that eventually tourists will love the Galapagos to death.
Day 3 - Our ship would sail overnight to the next island when we were sleeping. Some nights the sea was rough so there was quite a bit of rocking to and fro when we were trying to sleep. Neither Steve nor I were bothered with seasickness, but the ship’s purser was handing out Dramamine like after dinner mints.
The next day we took a zodiac to the island of Floreana. We would launch by zodiac from the rear of the ship. They had eight zodiacs on board and one glass-bottom boat for the non-snorkelers. The ship had cranes on a boom to load/ unload those zodiacs, it was interesting to watch and the crew was really skilled which made it look easy to do. On this day we had our first “wet landing” which meant that we would need to step out of the boat into calf-deep water in the surf and wade ashore.
Floreana is uninhabited by humans now (but it had a weird history in the 1930’s. If you are interested, rent “The Galapagos Affair: Satan came to Eden” on Netflix. A most bizarre tale). Our group hiked inland to a lagoon that was full of flamingos. They were not real close because they were feeding in the middle of the lagoon, straining the bottom looking for crustaceans. They look pretty goofy, but also have graceful mannerisms. I also interacted with a baby Booby that totally cracked me up.
It was extremely difficult for me to resist touching him, and I could have totally just scooped him right up into my arms easily because he was so innocent and unthreatened by me. This happened every day, constantly. This is one of the reasons why Galapagos is so special.
Charles Darwin really did not have to work very hard to collect his specimens because sometimes he just walked around picking up birds like Easter Eggs! Sounds unlikely until you’ve been to Galapagos and then you will understand.
We hiked to a beach that was known as a sea turtle nesting area. We saw lots of tracks were the females had come up in the night to lay their eggs. We also saw little telltale tracks from hatched babies headed to the ocean (all the activity happens at night, we didn’t see them). This beach was also prolific with sting rays. They float around in the surf, so they taught us to walk and “do the stingray shuffle.” You have to shuffle your feet along the bottom as you walk in the water because the rays are half buried. Our group waded into the surf, shuffling, and disturbed a huge group of about 30 of them, all different sizes. They are not aggressive and only dangerous if you tread on them... but they looked pretty menacing!
We visited “Post Office Bay.” It is the oldest postal location in Ecuador. In the 1500s, whalers and sailors had erected a Post Office barrel here. In those days, ships would be at sea for many years before they returned to their home port. The standing policy was to look through all the mail that had been left in the barrel, and if there were any letters addressed to a port of destination for that particular ship, then that letter was taken out – and ultimately delivered by that ship. No postage necessary, it was an honor system. Seems that this system really did work back in those days, and the barrel is still here in operation today. Our group deposited some postcards for delivery, and we looked through the letters that had been left in
the Postal barrel. Some were given the opportunity to go kayaking before breakfast, so we were paddling around by 6:30 a.m.
Day 4 - The Galapagos Islands consists of 13 major islands, and seven smaller islands. The most iconic animals are the Galapagos Tortoises, which presently occupy only four islands. Formerly, they occupied more islands but had become extinct when the islands started receiving human visitors. In the 1500s, buccaneers used to stop at the people in our group took some post cards to deliver in their hometown to the addressees. How fun is that?!
Snorkeling that afternoon had me playing with the sea lions again. I was never afraid of them, though we were warned that they are really just like puppies and will nip playfully once in a while. We also
encountered a sea turtle that was feeding, it was pretty neat to watch. The fish and coral were really fantastic.
Our days were non-stop activity. Right away, I started going to bed around 9 p.m. (which is way early, unheard of for me) because I wanted to get enough rest to be able to continue the rest of our week at the same pace. None of the activities were mandatory, but the activities were structured in a way that one could do all the activities available if desired and if you had the energy. We didn’t want to miss anything, so both of us were pretty zonked out by the end of the day. There was one morning that we Galapagos to load up on food and water. Giant tortoises were in high demand and were systematically exploited. Sailors would retrieve them from the islands backpacking them onto the beach, then placing them on the ships decks or hold where the tortoises would survive without food or water for up to a year. It was an easy source of fresh meat for long voyages, but resulted in an estimated loss of between 100,000 – 200,000 tortoises as history marched on (side note – read “In the Heart of the Sea: The Tragedy of the Whaleship Essex”
Nathaniel Philbrick. True history on which Herman Melville based his famed “Moby Dick.” This ordeal involved the Galapagos and the story is compelling). Over centuries, man also introduced invasive and harmful species such as rats and goats. Tortoises began to be harvested and relocated to zoos and collections worldwide. Today there are around 20,000 tortoises left on the Islands.
We visited the human inhabited Santa Cruz Island and the Charles Darwin Research Station where they are working very hard to help the tortoises raise young ones successfully. Baby hatchlings are kept in safe, secure facilities for five years.
Once they are established and old enough to have a good chance of survival, they are reintroduced into the wild. They can live over 100 years and can weigh up to 500 pounds. We were surprised to learn that they do not start breeding until age 35! Most of the tortoises we saw weighed 300 - 400 pounds. Another fun fact – when two males are “fighting” over a female, they compare neck sizes. The male tortoises face each other and both stretch their neck out as high as they can. The male that has the longest neck wins the battle. I included a photo demonstrating a dominant male strutting his stuff. I also included two photos from the Darwin Center’s exhibits. I was interested to see an example of what the inside of a tortoise’s shell looks like, the tortoises’ vertebrae is attached to the shell on the inside.
The oldest known tortoise that has been accurately documented lived to be 167 years old. We learned that it was conceivably possible that there are still some tortoises living in the wild that were alive when Charles Darwin was on the Islands. Think about that for a minute. WOW!
We traveled to a higher elevation of Santa Cruz Island to a ranching community where we were allowed to hike around and look for tortoises in the wild. On our way there, we counted 50 of
them out in the fields. It was really odd because they were in pastures intermingled with ranching cattle – apparently this is a fairly common sight to see tortoises and cows together in the same field. What a weird sight that was! The highlands were lushly forested and grassy. The tortoises eat grass and are pretty much out in the open. We were able to walk up to many of them, they were so gentle and so amazing to watch. It was really hard to tear ourselves away from each one of them. Another fun fact -the tortoises like to soak in warm pools; we did find a pool with several tortoises having a spa day. It was raining a light mist that day but we had slickers, and the touring company provided high top rubber boots so we just took it in stride.
Day 5 - We spent a second day on the island of Santa Cruz, but this time on the other side of the island from where the tortoises are located. Santa Cruz is one of the larger islands so the landscape was diverse. Our ship sailed to the northwestern coast (uninhabited) where we spent some time hiking around checking out the famed endemic land iguanas. Actually we saw two different varieties living in an area called “Cerro Dragon” which translates as “Dragon Hill.” We probably walked about 2 miles inland, you can see our ship out in the distance in one of the photos. I included several photos of the landscape. The beaches had amazing white sand that transitioned into rugged black lava rock. Inland, the soils were orange due to mineral content. There were stark contrasts with the low greenery and the sparse trees (which were bare this time of year). There was an abundance of tall cacti spread amongst the trees, and that is what the land iguanas eat.
Upon making landfall, we encountered the marine iguanas. They are mostly black and reminded me of Godzilla. Charles Darwin called them “Imps of Darkness.” When they are not on the beaches diving for seaweed, they migrate inland and hang around in lagoons here. Their trackways can be seen in the lagoon shallows.
They bask in the sun to warm up because the ocean water is pretty cold for them. We asked the Naturalists if the sea lions try to hunt them for food? No, but the sea lions do grab them by the tails and attempt to play with them in the water, which can result in the death of the iguana. (Sounds just like a puppy, right?)
Next we encountered the yellowish land iguanas. They live in burrows underground and, unlike the marine iguanas, are solitary. We actually saw several of them fighting over “real estate.” They mainly eat cactus fruit, so they spend their days waiting for the prickly pear fruit to fall on the ground.
The cactus fruit is covered with long sharp needles. We actually saw an iguana rolling a fruit around with his front claws, breaking the spines off so he could eat. Apparently they never do get all the spines off and it’s fairly common for iguanas to bleed from the mouth while they are feeding. Tough life!
This was a fairly surreal hike. The scenery and animals were other-worldly here. It was magically beautiful. No wonder Galapagos used to be called “The Enchanted Isles” by the buccaneers!
Day 6 – Bartlome. Our group went ashore on a smaller island just off the east coast of Santiago Island. Bartoleme is a volcanic moonscape with not many plants at all. It was a geologic treat with lots of examples of volcanic spatter cones and lava flows. There has not been much erosion of the features yet, everything looked freshly minted from the earth and very eerie. Nevertheless, Bartolme is picturesque and the views are stunning.
We went snorkeling twice on this day, and we had the best snorkeling experience so far because the full sun was out and the lighting was excellent. In the morning, we encountered an unbelievable collection of starfish. They were mostly sitting on the sandy bottom and there were hundreds of them. This dive was called a “deep water drift”; it was along a rocky
shoreline that dropped directly into deep water, with a strong current. No shallows at all. The zodiacs dropped us off so we could swim with the flow of the current along the shoreline. Occasionally during our time in the water, I would stop and look at the cliffs above me. It was pretty funny because the sea lions and marine iguanas were sitting up there, looking down at us. Who is observing who? Later that afternoon our ship moved to Sombrero Chino, another islet near Santiago. It is a really weird experience to be sitting in the water, looking at a shoreline of black craggy lava with a forest of tall cacti growing everywhere. It’s even stranger to be snorkeling and look up from snorkeling underwater to see penguins looking down at you! Galapagos penguins are fairly small. We were lucky to catch them sunning themselves after feeding. What charming little guys they were! Steve swam above a black tipped reef shark, and I saw a moray eel and a group of puffer fish.
Day 7 – Genovesa. Our last day of the island expedition was spent on Genovesa, which is known for an overwhelming amount of bird life. Our ship sailed into Darwin’s Bay, which is a submerged volcanic caldera, so the ship was surrounded by land on three sides (our captain earned his wages that day). Immediately upon making a wet zodiac landing on the beach, we saw nesting birds literally everywhere. I was really fascinated by the young red footed boobies, which were occupying every tree and bush. Completely innocent and unafraid, these babies calmly regarded us while we stood less than a foot away. I did not need to use a zoom lens because I was standing right next to the birds. The boobies used the bushes as cover and protection from the frigate bird, which also nested in profusion here. We learned that frigate birds are just like pirates; they don’t hunt for their own food, rather, they steal it. The frigates chase the boobies over the ocean when they are returning from hunting and harass them until the boobies drop (or regurgitate) their
meal. Then, in mid-air, the frigates catch the food. The boobies nest in the bushes and trees because the frigates won’t climb in between branches. The frigate birds had nests out in the open on the ground. Up on the rocks were nesting swallow tailed gulls, Nazca boobies, and red billed tropicbirds. It was an unbelievable amount of birds, completely unafraid of us. We also hiked up the cliffs to an open area, looking for the Galapagos owl. I can brag that I located one of the owls before our guide could spot it, which pretty much astonished the rest of the people in our group.
Our journey had reached its end, and it was pretty hard to say goodbye to the Enchanted Islands. The entire trip had exceeded our expectations, and did measure up to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Definitely unforgettable and worthwhile. We felt very blessed. We flew from Baltra to Quito for two days to explore that historic city. We met a very spry 75 year old man at the Basilica Voto de Nacional, who we hired as a guide. We followed him for five hours throughout the historic section of “Old Town” in Quito. He made sure we saw everything, from the famous landmarks to obscure details. He was a local resident, so he shepherded us behind the scenes in a few of the “fine arts” schools Old Town was awesome, there were so many buildings still in use from the 1500’s, 1600, 1700’s and 1800’s. Steve reminded me that Quito had never experienced any world wars, and not many natural disasters and thus, much of the architectural history is still intact. However, the area is surrounded by dormant but active volcanoes; potentially all this history could get wiped out by a catastrophic eruption. We had a wonderful time, learned a great deal, and maximized every available moment we had in this wonderful place! ~ Deb
San Bernardino Mountains
September 15, 2018 Leaders: Danny & Norma Siler
On Saturday, Sept 15 we led a trip to the San Bernardino Mountains. It was a beautiful day. We had eight vehicles. The group was Pete and Janet Austin with Beth Mika, Axel Heller, Gary Hilder and Don Zarzah, Nelson Miller, Bob Peltzman and Bonni, B.J. and Monica Keeling with son Jarred and Tracy Wood.
Our meet-up location was in Running Springs. Then we drove the highway to Fawnskin to pick up a couple more vehicles, then drove to 2N09 -Polique Canyon Road which began our dirt road exploration.
We spent the day traveling in the area north of Big Bear Lake. We had ten or twelve points of interest to stop and visit. These included walking on the Pacific Crest Trail for a panoramic view of Holcomb Valley, an occasional abandoned gold mine, a couple of lonely graves, an occasional foundation ruins of buildings for the former towns of Belleville and Doble, the Hitchcock Ranch with quite a number of horses grazing in the meadow, the 1930s Van Dusen cabin, which is still standing, a small dam built to create a pond possibly for cattle or horses. We drove through a fairly large burn area from a 2017 fire,stopped at the remains of the head-frame of the Lucky Baldwin Mine, and visited a small cemetery of about 20 graves with newly painted crosses.
Everyone had a very good time and after thank yous and goodbyes near Baldwin Lake, we went our separate ways about 4:00 p.m. ~ Danny
Desert Explorers at Large
West Salt Lake Desert
I have now been on two very enjoyable and rewarding tours through the West Salt Lake desert in Utah and would suggest Desert Explorers consider a trip a little further afield than the Mojave.
My first auto trip left Ely, NV on Alternate US 93 and turned east into the desert just west of Dutch Mountain in UT. The views from that pass, the small desert community of Callao, the open desert, Simpson’s Spring, Fish Springs N.W.R., and Dugway Pass are highlights of the route that once was used by pioneers on the Oregon Trial, the Overland Stage, the Pony Express and the Lincoln Highway. There are plenty of markers in the desert to commemorate historic sites.
The second trip started near American Fork at Camp Floyd Park (from the 1858-59 Mormon War) and traversed the desert to Fish Springs. We were exploring Oregon Trail sites and our group actually cemented in a T-rail marking part
of the trail. There are still many trail ruts and swales to see.
Some routes skirt Dugway Proving Ground with its “Lethal Force Authorized” signs. We were able to actually tour on the grounds but it contains the U.S.’s inventory of chemical weapons, drone testing facilities, weapons firing ranges, etc. and is difficult to get passes to see.
I am a new member and look forward to the time I may actually join a tour in the Mojave beyond my enchanting forays along the original U.S. Route 66 alignment and into Death Valley; judging from the newsletter there are beautiful desert stretches to explore and wonderful friends I have not met yet.
Emigrant Trails with Bob n Sue
Like most of us, Sue and I enjoy ﬁnding and following old trails. There are many of them to explore and each emigrant trail across our beautiful nation has its own individual story. Their very names inspire a curiosity and wanderlust in us. Think about the Santa Fe or the Cimarron, the Pony Express,the Oregon, Mormon, Applegate, Platte or Old Spanish Trail. We can follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark, Hastings, Bozeman, Goodale, Kearny, Nobles or Carson. We can try and imagine the obstacles endured on the Donner Trail, or the Cherokee Trail, or the Trail of Tears. We can revisit the not so distant past on Old National Trails, Route 66 or the Lincoln Highway. We have such a great history to experience on our emigrant trails.
To celebrate our 50th Anniversary in July, Sue and I took a road trip. This time instead of traveling and sleeping in a 1959 Ford panel truck. We had our comfortable car and stayed in hotels. Our route went through parts of Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Nebraska, South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho and Utah. We discovered that we were almost
always crossing or following old emigrant trails. We visited Fort Union in New Mexico where the Santa Fe and Cimarron Trails merge. The California Trail, Mormon Trail, Oregon Trail and the Pony Express Trail follow the Platte River through Nebraska and Wyoming, as we did. The Bozeman Trail and Lewis & Clark followed the Yellowstone River through Montana. Traveling along the old trails we saw Chimney Rock and Devils Tower. We hiked to the very spot that William Clark stood when he carved his signature in Pompey’s Pillar in Montana. We drove the 1935 Civilian Conservation Corps road to the top of Scotts Bluff in Nebraska. We hiked to early inscriptions at Register Cliff and also at Independence Rock, both landmarks along the Emigrant Trail in Wyoming. We saw where Custer’s trail ended at the Little Big Horn.
Along our route, we enjoyed seeing old billboards on Route 66 in New Mexico, historic Fort Laramie in Wyoming and driving beautiful “Road to the Sun” at Glacier Park in Montana. In Yellowstone Park we visited historic lodges including Yellowstone Lodge, Lake Lodge, Jefferson Lodge and Old Faithful Lodge. At Mammoth Lodge, Nelson and Mary Miller met us early one morning and took us to the Lamar Valley in Yellowstone to see wildlife on animal trails. What a great day that was!
Our personal trail ﬁnally led us toward home, but one last glorious night was spent at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon overlooking John Wesley Powell’s “trail,” the Colorado River. ~ Bob
August 24-26, 2018 Leader: Nelson Miller
We had nine vehicles and 13 people for a beautiful trip in the Sequoias. There were Nelson & Ellen Miller, Mignon Slentz, Dave Burdick, Glenn Shaw, Janet & Peter Austin. Bob & Sue Jaussaud, David Hess, Barbie & Larry Tidball, and Stephen Mersman. Thanks to Bob and Sue for doing sweep all weekend, they did a great job. It was a nice relief from the heat of the desert, since we were generally between 5,000 and 7,000 feet and it was actually in the 30’s when we got up in the morning. It was a fun group and we all enjoyed the sequoias. I find being in the big trees so peaceful and relaxing. Larry Tidball brought along a couple of books, Sequoia Groves and The 150 Largest Trees, which added immeasurably to our experience.
We started with a short hike to the Alonzo Stagg tree, which is on private property, and the sign said was the fifth largest sequoia in mass. However, Larry’s book listed it as only the sixth largest. One of Larry’s books also pointed us to the largest backyard tree and “the window tree” in somebody’s front yard as we drove back out through a beautiful subdivision right in the middle of sequoia grove.
As I was concerned about finding a camping area for this large a group, we headed for camp and wound up in Upper Peppermint disbursed camping area. We arrived just after 4:00 p.m.and started right in on Happy Hour. Janet and Peter stayed in a B and B just a couple of miles away, which they reported as interesting, but nice and comfortable. The disbursed camping area had just re-opened after being closed for overuse. The ranger had told me that volunteers had pulled out 7 large dumpsters of trash from this area. That is really sad, but it already had a lot of toilet paper and diapers scattered about. It had signs warning that the area would be permanently closed if the public
did not keep it clean, but apparently to no avail. Maybe the signs needed to be in Spanish too?
Saturday morning, we headed for more sequoia groves, but first stopped at Dome Rock, another short hike. There is a beautiful view from here, but Saturday was pretty smoky so the view was limited. Again, Larry’s books were very informative about the groves. The maps show the Red Hill and Peyrone Groves as accessible, but when we arrived at the turn-offs, the roads were impassable. Too bad since they were listed as having “museum-quality trees,” an interesting description, but tantalizing. Larry has a goal of visiting all the groves, so maybe I can return with him and hike into these groves. It appears both are only a half mile to a mile in, but might entail bushwhacking.
We crossed the corner of the Tule River Indian Reservation, which has parts of several groves, including the Red Hill, Peyrone, and Black Mountain groves. There were some giant trees just as we exited the reservation. We drove on through the Black Mountain Grove, which encompasses over 500 trees extending over 2,500 acres (about 3 square miles). Most of this area was burned last year, so this was an interesting study. A few of the sequoias had been scorched nearly to their tops from adjacent trees, but the sequoias look like they will all survive. Larry’s book led us to the Black Mountain Beauty, which indeed was an incredible tree. This was another short hike since the road ended before we got to the tree. Then back to Upper Peppermint disbursed camping area for Happy Hour again, although different site this time
Sunday morning we headed south and stopped at Noble Young Creek Falls. This was another short, but very steep hike. We owe Alan Wicker a thank you for this, since he got the information about this from a ranger six years ago when we took a trip here last time. We were surprised there was still a reasonable amount of water in these falls. After the falls, we continued south to the Trail of 100 giants.
Luckily, we beat the crowds and so had a nice walk through this grove. There were actually over 120 sequoias greater than 10 feet in diameter and over 700 other sequoias in this grove. This is a great grove, but the beauty of the other groves is that we were virtually the only ones there.
We didn’t make it to the Freeman Grove, which was one of my goals. However, the road into this grove was blocked by downed trees. ~ Nelson
Meeting Minutes July 28th, 2018
Attending: Bobby Sanchez & Daniel Dick, Terry & Eileen Ogden, Ruth & Emmett Harder, Marian & Neal Johns, Jerry & Dolly Dupree, Sunny & Jean Hansen Jim Watson & Linda Stevens, Bob Jacoby, Jay Lawrence
Regrets Deb & Steve Marschke, Ding & Allan Wicker, June Box, Nelson Miller, Bob & Sue Jaussaud, Bill & Julie Smith
Meeting Opened 11:48 a.m. Previous Minutes Approved. Treasurer Reported by Bob Jacoby for Bill Smith. We’re solvent and in good shape. Current funds as of 7/25 are $4,948. We have 87 subscriptions, approximately 143 folks when you add in active family members. We should push for more subscribers, possibly printing
newsletters to have on hand at the Museum for visitors. DE cards and bumper stickers are forthcoming. More news at the next meeting.
Newsletter Newsletter is going well. Please keep sending your articles and when you send in photos, don’t shrink them. 1.5-3Mb photos are excellent and still fit nicely as an attachment for an email. If you have a ton of them, contact Jay Lawrence for a DropBox link so you can easily upload a big batch.
2019 Rondy Our next Rondy will be in Boulder City with the planning being done by Mignon Slentz. She already has the site nailed down with clubhouse and camping. There are plenty of motels in the area for non-campers. Currently there are two inbound trips, but more will be forthcoming as the date approaches. We’ll have an update at the next meeting.
Website Deb reported through Bob Jacoby that the site is doing well and up-to-date.
Subscriber Guide Tabled. Museum It’s summer break and the Museum newsletter and programs are dormant until Fall. There will be a MVRM Mini Barbecue September 26th. Pat is currently cataloging all the museum photo albums (24 of ‘em!) onto a huge spreadsheet. She has seven done so far. Trips Jerry noted upcoming trips and is looking for more. Always more. Upcoming trips:
New Business Sad to report on the passing of Rob Fulton, long time keeper of the flame at Zzyzx. He went too soon and is missed by all who knew him.
Next meeting September 29th, at Ding and Allan Wicker’s home. Adjourn: 12:30 p.m.
Desert Explorers at Large
Ellen Miller is camping in Flagstaff, Arizona, for about a month so you know we had to invade her Peace & Quiet and take her for a hike and then to lunch over at our house - July 27. She was a good sport letting us kidnap her for the day.
~ Bill & Julie Smith
Two Disasters + One
by Marian Johns
It seems fate was plotting against us only two – Yikes! I drove on very slowly – we were just not destined to join Bill Powell’s Hastings Cut Off trip (July 9-11). This, by the way, is the trail that the Donner Party took.
Our problems all started when Neal, realizing that he no longer has the strength that he used to, knew that he would have trouble getting the lug nuts off if we ever had a flat tire because the tire shops tighten them so tight. So he loosened all of them a bit. You can see where this is headed, no doubt. A bit turned out to be way too much.
Disaster # One: Warning signs began when the truck started wandering. We were about 40 miles from Wendover, Nevada when the wandering became so severe I had to stop and see why. The fellow behind me also stopped and told me that the left rear wheel was wobbling. Closer inspection showed that four out of the six studs were broken and missing. That left only two – Yikes! I drove on for a couple of miles but soon realized I could never make it 40 miles.
It happened that just about then I passed a fire camp (several forest fires in the area), so I stopped and asked one of the fire fighters if he would call AAA for us because we didn’t have our cell phone (I broke our cell phone and had to leave home before the phone company sent me a new [free] one). One and a half hours later the tow truck arrived and hauled us into a repair shop in Wendover ($180).
We opted for in a cheap motel ($50) right next to the repair shop that night instead of the camper because it was so hot. I called Bill (with another borrowed phone and arranged to meet the group in Wells, Nevada, 50 miles west of Wendover, the next night.
The next morning the repair shop replaced all of the studs and lug nuts in the left rear wheel ($165), tightened the lug nuts on all the other wheels and sent us on our way.
Disaster # Two: I was just at the exit for Wells when there was a sudden tremendous BANG! The right rear wheel had come completely off!! All 6 studs were broken and missing. I started to walk into town and got picked up by some helpful locals who took me to a tire/ wheel shop there in Wells. They, in turn, took me to a AAA towing company. AAA towed us on into town and deposited us at the tire/wheel shop. They were super nice folks, but unfortunately they
didn’t have enough studs so we had to wait till the next morning because the studs had to be ordered from Salt Lake City. The next morning the new studs arrived from SLC and were replaced ($161). By then, all we wanted to do was tuck our tails and head for home. We arrived home Wednesday evening exhausted, but with all four wheels still attached.
One more disaster: Broken studs weren’t the end of our problems. Upon our arrival home we were greeted by our Subaru that now has a smashed front bumper and two smashed front fenders, a dented hood and a dented passenger door. During our absence, our handyman “borrowed” it (without our permission). He is now quite busy working to pay off the repairs.
A few days later we got a call from Bob Jacoby who wanted to know if we had gotten home alright. He also told us they had had problems too. Bill’s Cherokee’s radiator blew up and they spent two days repairing it. ~ Marian
After the Hastings Trip
by Mignon Slentz • Pinedale Wyoming- July 13-15, 2018
After Bill Powell’s Hastings Cut Off Trip, Ellen Miller, Glenn Shaw and myself traveled north towards Wyoming. For several years I have wanted to visit the Mountain Man Museum in Pinedale. The timing was perfect to also take in the annual Mountain Man Rendezvous. We camped by Fremont Lake. We enjoyed the parade, Trader’s Row and the very informative talks on clothing, trade goods and horse packing. Quite a few Rendezvous were held in the area and we were able to see those places. Always held on Second weekend in July. ~ Mignon
Hastings Cutoff– or – Well, We Tried
July 9-11, 2018 By Bill Powell
Photos by Bill Powell and Brian Suen
The infamous Hastings Cutoff provided the pioneers with many surprises and setbacks. Our modern day expedition to the Hastings Cutoff was no exception. We had four people drop out prior to the start for one reason or another. Then the evening before the start, I got a call from Marion Johns. She and Neal had broken down en route.
Monday, July 9th. Saw the Jaussauds, Ellen Miller, Jim Watson, Mignon Slentz, Brien Suen, Richard Brazier, Bob Jacoby and myself convoying from the 15 miles from the Interstate 80 exit to the starting point. Brian was late arriving, and had to catch up. Finally, about 9:00 a.m., we started out from the initial markers and ascended a barely visible track to the top of Bidwell Pass. Once there we gathered for a group photo at the first of 12 markers erected by the Trails West organization.
Continuing on, the track became more visible and we crossed over relatively flat terrain toward the next pass through the Toano Range that our 80 and the original alignment of old US 40. Having crossed our second pass of the day, we proceeded across the Goshute Valley. Once on the West side of the valley, we had to detour around a new active mine area. Picking up the route again, we (and the pioneers) had to skirt the base of the Pequop Mountains for 20 miles to the South before getting to a pass that wagons could handle.
We stopped for lunch at the top of Flowery Pass in an old narrow gauge railroad cut, then proceeded downhill into the Independence Valley. After crossing this valley, we drove through a forest going over yet another pass through the Spruce Mountain Ridge. Another fifteen miles or so across the next valley brought us to the base of the Ruby Mountains and US 93. From this point, we intended to drive North into Wells, NV for gas and overnight before continuing.
This is where things went completely off the tracks. Just as we got to the highway, my Jeep cracked its radiator. So ended our Hastings Cutoff trip. Bob, Richard, Brian and I waited for a tow truck while the others found a nice campground in the Ruby Mountains and spent the night there before heading out. Bob, Richard and Brian spent the night in Wells before meeting me in Elko the next day. With repairs completed, we four started home Wednesday morning; the Hastings Cutoff having claimed more victims. ~ Bill
Have you been here?
Tuttle Creek Ashram
The Tuttle Creek Ashram is situated at an altitude of seventy-six-hundred feet on a steep ridge between the north and south forks of Tuttle Creek, a stream that flows briskly through a glacially carved canyon in the granitic Sierra Nevada Mountains. Built in the shape of a balanced cross, the ashram is a two-thousand-square-foot structure of natural stone and concrete, with a cement floor, heavy-beam roof, and a large fireplace; the stonework of the ashram blends so well into the ridge that the building is hard to see even from a distance of one-half of a mile away.
The history of this remarkable building can be traced back to 1928, when Franklin Merrell-Wolff and his wife Sherifa first visited the area west of Lone Pine, California. Here stands Mount Whitney, which at the time was the tallest peak in the United States. The couple had been told by an Indian acquaintance that the spiritual center of a country was close to its highest point of elevation, and for this reason they sought a nearby location to work on several writing projects. Starting at the legendary Olivas Ranch, Wolff and his wife packed their typewriters and camping supplies onto burros and hiked up to Hunter's Camp, a flat area at the base of Mount Whitney. The pair set up camp near a waterfall on Lone Pine Creek, and spent the next two months contemplating and writing. Later that year, the couple founded the Assembly of Man, an educational institution with a generally theosophical orientation. As part of this work, the couple decided to start a summer school near the area they had camped the previous summer. Wolff made inquiries to the U.S. Forest Service about a special use permit for the school, and was informed that in order to receive authorization for such an operation in the High Sierra Primitive Area, the As.sembly would be obliged to erect some sort of permanent structure. Moreover, he was notified that building permits for the Hunt.er's Camp area were not available. Accordingly, Wolff explored the next canyon south for a suitable site, and found a spot high in a beautiful pi–on pine forest surrounded by two branches of a clear, cold creek. The founders of the Assembly of Man decided that the remote and quiet wilderness of Tuttle Creek Canyon would provide the ideal atmosphere for their summer school. Wolff and the
members of the Assembly of Man received permission from the Forest Service to operate a summer school on Tuttle Creek in 1930, but it would be almost ten years before a site was leveled for a structure. Wolff handled all of the dynamite used to blast a flat area, and as rock began piling up, he got the idea to use it in the construc.tion of the building. The structure was laid out roughly along the four cardinal points of the compass, and built in the shape of a balanced cross to symbolize the principle of equilibrium.
Building materials such as lumber and cement were initially brought to the site on the backs of burros from Olivas Ranch, and the site was approached from the north side of the canyon. Later, Wolff cleared an access road on the south side of the canyon, which could accommodate a tractor pulling a flatbed trailer. Wolff and his students would spend the next ten summers working on the ashram, spending their days engaged in hard labor and their evenings with music and study around a campfire. The group also held formal services at the site, with Wolff and Sherifa officiating. A large altar was constructed on the floor of the structure, using randomly patterned granite stones set in mortar; the altar was topped by a smooth covering of mortar. Originally, there was no inscription on the altar, but sometime in the 1960s, an unknown visitor chiseled these words into the top face:
Father, Into thy eternal wisdom, all creative love, and infinite power I direct my thoughts,
give my devotion and manifest my energy That I may know, love, and serve thee.
Just south of the altar, in the concrete floor, is a thirty-two inch square hole. This spot was called 'the cornerstone,' and was where a person addressing the congregation was to stand. Over the years, the stonework walls, a large stone fireplace, two intersecting heavy-beamed gable roofs, and the window and door casings were all completed. But in 1951, before the windows and doors were installed, work ceased on the ashram because Sherifa, whom Wolff credits as being the main impetus behind the project, was no longer able to make the trip up to the building site. The name of the building was originally the 'Ajna Ashrama'; today Wolff's students refer to it simply as 'The Ashrama.' Lone Pine residents often refer to it as 'The Monastery' and one can find it called 'The Stone House' in hiking guides; it is known by the U.S. Forest Service as the 'Tuttle Creek Ashram.'
In 1964, the ashram was threatened with demolition when Congress passed the Wilderness Act, and Tuttle Creek Canyon became part of the John Muir Wilderness. Since the site had not been used as a school for over ten years, the Forest Service invoked a clause that allowed the agency to terminate Wolff's special use permit. Moreover, since buildings are not typically permitted in Wilderness Areas, the Forest Service considered dynamiting the structure into rubble.
In the early 1980s, however, the Forest Service evaluated the ashram for historical significance, and concluded that the structure was indeed significant; the California State Historic Preservation Officer concurred. At the time, several video documentaries were made in an effort to help preserve the ashram: The Philosopher's Stone (1980) and Ashrama Man (1983) are both available for viewing on the Franklin Merrell-Wolff Fellowship's website. In June 1998, the Inyo Register ran an article intimating that the ashram was in danger of demolition, but the Heritage Resources Program Manager at the local Forest Service office reiterated in the article that the ashram had been put on the removal list without any proper evaluation, and that 'The Forest Service would be looking at preserving this… unique architectural property.' Toward this end, it was planned to have the ashram nominated for recognition in the National Register of Historic Places, but these plans were never culminated; the topographical site plan and floor plan below are taken from the nomination form.
A 23-minute film that documents some of the construction of the Ashrama (in 1940) may be viewed on the website at www.merrell-wolff.org/fmw/ashrama
Endnotes  Tuttle Creek descends from Mt. Langley (14,042 feet) to the town of Lone Pine, California.  When Alaska was granted statehood in 1959, Mt. McKinley (Denali) became the highest point in the United States.  Located at an altitude of
eight-thousand feet, this area was also known as 'Hunter Flat'; both names honored William L. Hunter, an early pioneer of Owens Valley and one of the two men who made the first ascent of nearby Mt. Williamson in 1884. (Mt. Williamson is the second highest peak in the Sierra Nevada Mountains.) The name of this area was changed to 'Whitney Portal' after the official opening of an automobile road to the flat in June 1936.  Wolff began writing his first book, which would be published under the title Yoga: Its Problems, Its Purpose, Its Technique; Sherifa drafted a Sanskrit dictionary called 'Devan.gar.,' as well as several other essays.  Faustin Bray & Brian Wallace, The Philosopher's Stone (Mill Valley, Calif.: Sound Photosynthesis, 1980); Ashrama Man (Mammoth, Calif.: Mammoth TV, 1983). Both of these interviews may be accessed on the Interviews page under the Franklin Merrell-Wolff tab.  Julian Lukins, 'Efforts under way to preserve ashram,' Inyo Register, June 13, 1998. Except where otherwise noted, content on the Franklin Merrell-Wolff Fellowship website by the Editors and Authors is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial-Share-A-Like 4.0 International License.
Eastern Sierra Exploratory 2018
June 21-23, 2018
By Ron Lipari
Mignon Slenz, Mike Vollmert and I met at the Eastern California Museum in Independence on Wednesday, June 20, and spent some time touring the museum’s exhibits which included both Native American artifacts and many historical items as well. Photographs recording the history of the Eastern Sierra were also very interesting! We then met Bob and Sue Jaussaud at what I will call Jerry Harada’s Stamp Mill. Jerry loved the Eastern Sierra and fishing, and he loved camping on Tinemaha Creek just south of Big Pine. In April 2015 Jerry led a trip to his Stamp Mill as well as a refining mill nearby – this trip included Bob, Sue, and myself. None of us could remember where the mill was located, but, I found a picture of the mill on my cell phone. Not being an “advanced techie” I did not realize that the DropBox App has the GPS coordinates of every picture taken by my cell phone!! I sent the coordinates to both Mike and Bob who promptly found the location of the stamp mill. The mill is not well known and hidden from view in a canyon. Only one stamp is left in the three stamp mill, but it still is a remarkable place!! We then visited the nearby refining mill which has been partially rehabilitated with new timbers and rafters. The mill still had an intact Pelton wheel which provided power for the entire operation.
Leaving Jerry’s Stamp Mill we drove up to Bishop Creek to camp at 7500 feet on McGee Creek in the Buttermilks. We had camped there last year and I was attempting to find the route up to the camp. However, the usual route was blocked by a locked chain gate. Mignon to the rescue, she remembered the road we had taken which led directly to the cool and pleasant camp covered with beautiful iris flowers and next to a wonderful stream. It was nice to leave the high temps of Bishop and camp at altitude! We were all treated to a great meal by Sue – taco salad and a dessert of home-made brownies!
The next morning we met Nelson Miller, Ellen Miller, Marion Johns and Neal Johns in Bishop to join us for the rest of the trip. We headed up to Bridgeport and to Masonic Road. We were again at altitude and the weather was delightful. We soon arrived at the Success Mine and the Chemung Mine. The Chemung Mine was in operation from 1909 to 1938 producing both high-grade and low-grade gold ore. The mill and various buildings are still standing and contain cyanide stirring machinery to separate the gold ore.
We then headed to the town of Masonic where gold was discovered in 1862. Apparently one of the co-founders of the mine, J. A. Phillips, ended up dead at the bottom of a shaft – possibly the work of one of the other partners in the venture! There still stands remains of a partial mill, hilltop tram works as well as a number of log cabins.
We then continued out of the town of Masonic heading towards Nevada to the East Fork of the Walker river. Arriving at the Elbow of the East Fork of the Walker river, we found some very nice campsites on the river and explored the area. It was decided that we would head to Aurora as it was still early in the afternoon. We continued our tour up to the higher elevations of Aurora, Nevada. When we arrived we immediately set up camp in the pine trees and were treated to a wonderful dinner prepared by Mignon that included a stew of sausage, rice and beans as well as cole slaw! In addition Ellen brought her famous strawberry salad. We were never short of dessert as Marion brought two cakes – lemon and chocolate – no caloric deficit on this trip! After dinner we visited the Aurora cemetery - a very moving experience - especially when reading the grave markers of children. Bob remembered visiting this area with Bob Martin many years before and was interested in finding a particular epitaph. However, the cemetery has been vandalized in the past including the attempted removal of grave makers. The most notable desecration was the headstone of William E. Carder, a notorious criminal and gunfighter who was assassinated by a man whom he threatened in preceding days. His wife Annie erected the headstone but it was toppled by vandals in an attempt to steal it. All of us lamented the indiscriminate destruction of artifacts and cannot understand why anyone would do this.
We then headed to what is left of the town of Aurora. Aurora was made the county seat of Mono County in California in 1862. However, after surveyors determined that Aurora was indeed in Esmeralda County, Nevada, the Mono County seat was moved to Bridgeport where it remains to this day. The Aurora cemetery contained the grave of W. M. Boring, Nevada Senator who died in 1872 aged 43 years. Bob quipped that the senator's name was appropriate for his chosen profession — a politician!!
We then traveled up Bodie canyon where we came upon the ruins of an old mill. The mill had two different ore crushers that none of us had seen before, however, Bob had seen this mill prior to that time on his trip with Bob Martin years before. We then traveled out of Bodie Canyon over the pass which brought us to beautiful views of the surrounding country and through a maze of wildflowers. Mike, Sue, Ellen and Marion all identified the various flowers including the Mariposa Lily, which apparently looks like another flower of a different name which I cannot recall. I do know the flowers were spectacular, with the prettiest being the red and yellow Columbine!!
Traveling this road, which was not well traveled, we finally made it to the north side of Mono Lake. After checking out some beautiful springs – not warm springs – we arrived at a lovely park just north of Lee Vining and had lunch. After lunch we headed towards the town of Benton and over Montgomery pass to the Montgomery ten stamp mill. Arriving at this mill it was stated that it might be one of the most intact mills in the country, as it still has all ten brakes on the stamps when it was last stopped! The reason it is so intact is because it is a difficult hike to get to the mill and it is on a steep hillside. Also found was a steam motor and part of a cable system which brought ore to the stamp mill. All agreed that this was an amazing place.
Next we headed to the Montgomery pass cabins located just below the stamp mill, but because the road down to the cabins was impassable, we were required to go all the way around the mountain to get to them. Once more we arrived to what we thought was the road to the cabins, but alas it was not. Now remember we had just been there a year ago and we could not remember how to get there – must be our age??? Bob finally remembered where the road was located and we made it to the cabins on a just freshly graded dirt road! Camping that evening we had a pasta dinner with salad and cake for dessert. The next morning we hiked up the road from the cabins to Gold Hill and found the ruins of a smelter works. The group then headed out of the mountains into Nevada and headed up Trail Canyon to the Queen Anne mine, which Sue shared was mined for antimony and mercury. This road headed over the White Mountains back to Highway 6. Marion, who has been most places,remembered going over this route from Highway 6 over to Nevada — the opposite direction we were traveling. She also remembered that the road over the pass was VERY steep at the top. But this road had just been graded – so onward we traveled. We passed some beautiful small lakes being fished by successful fishermen. We had lunch at the Boundary Peak trailhead, then continued on our journey over the mountain – which did not disappoint. Not only did Marion remember the road, but was correct in that it was very STEEP! All of us finally made it over the top without incident – albeit a little shaky!
On the other side of the pass we found several mines. Noteworthy were the Morgan Mine and the Abbot Mine both of which still had cabins standing and contained therein a portion of a mill. We continued down this roadway back to Highway 6 - over Montgomery Pass to Dyer, Nevada to gas up. We then headed to Lower Cottonwood Creek to camp on the last evening. We arrived and camped under the shade of the Cottonwood trees next to a lovely stream. The only thing to do was to sit in the stream and enjoy the cool water – which most of us did! It was delightful and added to our happy hour enjoyment placing our chairs in the stream and sipping our adult beverages and enjoying a dinner of leftovers!!
A big thanks to Mike and Bob for all of the route finding on this trip. Their GPS devices were invaluable - and it was much appreciated. A great time was had by all!! ~ Ron
2018 Rondy Petroglyph Tour
Trip report and photos by Jerry Dupree
One of the highlights of this year's Rondy was the petroglyph tour on the China Lake Naval Weapons Base. The trip was planned months in advance for a maximum of 20 people. Each person filled out a thorough three page security application form and our vehicles were searched for contraband such as fire arms, alcohol, or whatever. We had to wake up very early, pack and check out of our hotel, eat breakfast, and gather at the museum at 6:15 a.m. It turned out to be a "hurry up and wait" situation and we finally got under way and then stopped at the place where our vehicles were searched, which further delayed us. We finally got rolling
again and were stopped due to some top secret activity ahead of us. We were not permitted to get out of our vehicles.
We got to the parking lot leading to a small canyon and there was a restroom. There were friendly and knowledgeable guides who were about a five to one ratio. We were required to be accompanied by a guide everywhere we went. Walking started out easy until we had to crawl and slide down rocks to a lower level. There are at least 10,000 petroglyphs on the rocks on both sides of the canyon. They date at least 20,000 years of human history. They depict animals such as big horn sheep, dogs, quail, people using early weapons, and unidentifiable designs. The petroglyphs were made by chipping or etching the accumulation of "desert varnish", leaving the underlying rock which creates the design. The age of the petroglyph can be determined by the amount of desert varnish that has formed back since the original design was made. Another way is by the type of weapon the figures are shown with. The earlier petroglyphs show a type of spear launcher, while the more recent ones are shown with a bow and arrow. The bow and arrow had many advantages including range, accuracy, and most importantly, the ability to launch an arrow laying down rather than a spear from a standing position.
As I looked at the petroglyphs that were made over a span of 20,000 years, I was wondering why the artistic ability remained unchained rather than evolving to better
artistry. In looking at children's art I notice more complex abilities as the children develop technique and ability. First graders tend to draw stick figures with each design standing alone. Second graders include scenes such as a sun with a smile, houses with smoke coming from chimneys, groups of people such as a family, clouds, and birds flying. By the third grade, the scenes show proportional arms, legs, clothing, hats, and detailed animals such as dogs and cats. As each child matures, so does their art. The pictures are from front and side angles with facial expressions. The petroglyphs don't show this kind of progression. I tend to think the "artists" were likely to be young children in each generation performing this activity while the adults and older children were hunting and gathering food. That's my theory based on observation of children expressing themselves in graphic art and clay sculptures.
I decided not to continue the trip further down the canyon and turned back. On the way back I slipped on a smooth rock and fell down. It could have been serious if I hadn't landed the way I did.
I could have broken ribs, arms, and wrists. I was stiff and sore for a long time after the incident. I am disappointed that I am no longer young enough and not in physical shape like I used to be. Nothing got hurt except my dignity. ~ Jerry